Aigues-Mortes – The Travel Companion

I have lived in Aigues-Mortes for more than twenty years. As soon as you walk through the ramparts you feel you are entering another world: you slow down naturally, the historic centre is best explored on foot, and you stroll without stress through the pedestrian area inside the walls. If you only have one day, here is the programme I suggest.

The morning

The tourist train (Petit train) may seem something of a cliché, and yet I recommend it to start with, especially with children: you go right around the town with explanations that are easy to follow. Departure and tickets are at the Porte de la Gardette; booking is only needed for groups. It generally runs from April to the end of September, and during the French autumn half-term holidays. Right next to it is the only entrance to the Towers and Ramparts.

The guided tour "Tout est faux !" ("It's All Wrong!"), which I lead myself, takes a hard look at the town's myths and legends. It meets at 11 am on the Place Saint-Louis, and booking is required. The tour is in French; the book includes a self-guided walk along the same route in English.

Lunchtime

Before lunch, take a stroll through the streets inside the ramparts. You will find my favourite places to eat in the book's chapter "Eating and drinking".

The afternoon: four options

• The Towers and Ramparts. There is an entrance fee. You walk along the wall-walk and climb the towers, including the Tour de Constance.
• The salt works. You can explore them on foot, by bike or on a little train, though it does not run all year.
• The Maison du Grand Site de France. Admission is free; a nature trail runs through the middle of the lagoons. In my view, it is a must-see.
• A boat trip in the Camargue. It follows the canals and stops at a manade, a ranch where Camargue bulls are raised.

For sunset I recommend the southern ramparts: the town gates stand out against the sky, and the salt works are a few steps away. It is an excellent spot for photographs.

Good to know

Is one day enough? Not really: the town deserves more time. With children, allow at least two days so you can enjoy it without rushing.

When to visit? Spring and autumn. The French Easter and autumn half-term holidays are ideal; in autumn it is slightly milder on average, but it rains a little more often. If you are not tied to school holidays, choose September rather than June: in June it can already be very hot (the record temperature in Aigues-Mortes, 40.9 °C, dates from June 2019). In high summer, visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

What to bring? Sun cream, a hat, a full water bottle and a charged smartphone for photos. A small pair of binoculars is a pleasure on the ramparts and in the salt works.

Visiting with a pushchair? It is possible, even on the cobbled streets; in high summer, when it is crowded, it gets harder. For the visit to the Towers and Ramparts, the pushchair stays at reception.

Where to park? See parking and electric car charging below.

The book goes on with two step-by-step walking tours, the full ramparts visit, parking maps, restaurants, places to stay – and the 12 myths and 15 legends. Get your copy.

Parking inside the ramparts is reserved for residents, hotel guests and the emergency services. Visitors park in one of the car parks around the ramparts. It is generally fairly easy to find a space; in early August it is harder, but it is extremely rare to find none at all.

Which car park?

• P2 and P3 are right at the foot of the ramparts. They are pay car parks and often full at weekends and during the holidays.
• P4 and P5 more often have space. P4 is a large unsurfaced area; when it is very busy, getting out can take a long time.
• P6 and P7 are pay car parks (ticket machines) and closed on Wednesday and Saturday mornings, which are market days. Checks are frequent.
• P8 is free but small; allow about ten minutes on foot.
• The Constance car park, at the entrance to the town on the station side, is also free, about ten minutes' walk from the ramparts.
• P9 is the cheapest of the pay car parks, about fifteen minutes' walk from the ramparts.

By motorhome

There is only one option: car park P4, almost at the foot of the eastern ramparts. It has a service point, water connections, household waste disposal, grey- and black-water emptying and public toilets. The only drawback: in summer it is extremely dusty.

Charging an electric car

It is not easy – I know what I am talking about, I have one. Near the ramparts there are four charging points on the reGARD network: two in the Rue du Faubourg de la Fraternité (five to ten minutes from the ramparts) and two on the Chemin du Mas d'Avon (ten minutes), rarely in use at the same time. The town has also installed new charging points in the Constance car park and in P8; they are expensive for slow charging.

There is no rapid charging in the immediate vicinity of the ramparts. The most reliable solution is the rapid chargers in the Lidl car park and in the neighbouring business park, at varying prices. The cheapest is still Lidl, with the Lidl Plus card.

In the book, you'll find maps showing every car park and charging point. Get your copy.